Sensory overload in Morocco - first port of call, FES!

Ladies and gentlemen, David and I would like to tell you a little bit about our experience in the magificent North African country of Morocco. It will be hard to use words to describe the sensory experience that is Morocco, so we will try to do it with pictures (and a few words).

Firstly (as introduction), Morocco is an emerging country...from the outside looking in it still has all the signs of being a developing/third world country. The countryside is dotted with little villages that show that not all is well with the country. Our delightful guide, Yusaf, was at pains to tell us that Morocco is a wonderful country and the young (46yo) King Muhammed VI, is known as the 'king of the poor'...he is the supreme ruler of this country (Political, Religious, Cultural, Economic) and he has instituted many new reforms since he came to power in 1999 (he succeeded his father, Hassan II, who died that year). School is free for all and the rate of illiteracy has decreased by 15% over that time... It was 80%! Although people who have the means can still send their children to private schools. But from what we saw there is still a very long way to go. (Do rich westerners have the right to make these judgments? We asked ourselves many questions every day in this fascinating Muslim country of great beauty!)

Mosques, mosques everywhere. I have never seen so many mosques in my entire life...But, wow, give me Moroccan architecture any day! Oh my word, I loved every tile, every door, every ceiling, every light fitting, every enclosed garden, every wall, every fountain, every minaret that I had the good fortune to visit. These architects and designers had class and style and had the most amazing ability to build something that is "beautiful", even in its old age. In one of the palaces we visited, (some 900 years old), there was the typical internal coutyard garden..a sensory experience (cool greenery, running water, birds singing)...to praise Allah the creator they built gardens to have taste, smell and colour...we were in their Moroccan heaven on earth. They have a "wise" way of "decompressing" from the busyness of the world outside...we walked through a number of simple, yet beautiful rooms/spaces to get to the courtyard...& rest. We too were able to praise our Creator God who created individuals with the vision, skill and ability to build such magnificent buildings.

Anyway, our first port of call was Fes (pronounced as it is spelt!) not Fez (as I have always thought!) the hat, which is Turkish!

We arrived at Fes after driving through the most astounding countryside and villages, full of "peasant" life. Morocco is only 54 years old (so our guide told us millions of times - quite apologetic at times, but mostly with the most wonderful sense of pride! He loves the king and the reforms he has brought in!) and there is still an enormous amount of work to be done to help "his" people. You could see the huge divide between rich and poor, as in every country in the world (some is more hidden than others!)

Our hotel room was a wonderful surprise. It was huge with a sitting room and balcony...see the pictures of King and Queen Farouk! But the best was yet to come...

The next morning we spent wandering around the Medina, the Fes marketplace...oh, if only I had the words to describe how amazing this place is! We only saw a "pinch" of the 9,400 alley ways that are the Medina. But we experience the wonderment of people, spices, herbs, donkeys (BALAK - get out the way!), narrow lane ways, crowded buildings...it was a sensory highlight (lost for words to describe!) So, we walked, experienced, wandered, wondered, ahhhhed and oooohed, felt "stuff" for the people, the donkeys (very hard working animals everywhere in Morocco - although Barbara Hutton (actress) started a veterinary hospital in Fes for the people to bring in their animals for treatment for free. This is now run by the government and still operates for free!), the gazillion cats (who surprisingly looked very well cared for!)  This was one the highlight of Morocco for both David and I. Enough of me...here are the pics! Enjoy Morocco and particularly Fes!

Chris and tiles...lots of tiles! These were at the
gate of the Imperial Palacee in Fes.

Trailer load of herbs...mint is very big here in Morocco. We were
introduced to Moroccan "whisky" mint tea, which is very minty
and very sweet. We had it whenever we could...even wanted to
buy a special mint tea teapot to bring home, but at 350 euros  for
a silver teapot, I thought I would make do with my mum's old
teapot at home.



Wild strawberries ready for sale in the market!



Gutting fish for sale...sardines! I think I know why the cats
look so healthy, getting the offcasts thrown to them each
day.

One of the 9,400 alleys ways in the Fes
Medina, each with its charm, smell and
colour. We were both fascinated by everything
we saw, heard and smelt. We were sorry to
leave.

These pots were very old and were for hire for
people when they required pots for large events
eg weddings, festivals etc.

The blue (tiled) stairs leading to (Mecca) the
mosque.

One of the amazing stalls in the market. Our
eyes were popping out of our heads at the
beautiful produce throughout the market.

Mint tea was the Moroccan whisky...and very enjoyable any
time of the day.



This is a CARAVANSERAI...so romantic for us for a number of
reasons. It is an "inn where travellers could rest from
the day's travel", used for hundred of years. Have a look at the
Youtube link (www.youtube.com/watch?v=4QpRCK1IbiE of one of our
all time favourite singer/songwriters
Loreena McKeenit, has a magificent song "Caravanserai"
which tells of the travellers who use these wayside stops.

Donkeys, donkeys, donkeys...balak, balak
get our the way...or else!

These two donkeys are taking the animal skins to the tannery.

King Farouk in his palace...our hotel room in Fes!

Queen Farouk (!!???!!)



This is the tannery in the middle of the Medina...you can actually smell it long before you see it! When you come into the building they offer you a sprig of mint to hold under your nose, which is well received and then you go up to the balcony
which overlooks the tannery. In vats, in the top right of the picture, is lime which is used to remove hair and fat etc from the skins. They then go into vats of pigeon poo(!) which, because of its high acidity, cleans the skins further. Then the dyes- magnificent rich colours & and all natural...including saffron! Skins then hung out to dry on tops of buildings. It is very dirty work, standing bare foot in the vats . The workers however, are well paid (about 5000 euros / month - av Moroccan salary is about 3000 euros). Visited several leather goods shops in the souk, and both bought a pairs of pointy toed Moroccan Berber Babouche...maroon leather "slippers"..beautiful!  (Don't google "babush" unless you want to know about "cocky assholes"!!)