Intro to Venice

After our wonderful, fabulous, stunning, marvellous, beautiful stay in Umbria, we had to drive ourselves from our little hideaway two hours south of Florence through the mountains of Bolgna (stunning!) to Venice. I (Chris) was all for driving ourselves around the Italian countryside, but now... NA AH! David drove all the way, I navigated (and drove I didn't take my eyes off the road for a second!!), although we stuck to the motorways (and learnt very quickly about their toll road system - not bad), and were immediately in fear for our lives. Well I was anyway, David says he enjoyed the experience, I DIDN'T! We were in a very little car, Nissan Micra, which maxed out at about 130 kms per hour and that meant the engine was screaming in pain, so there we were minding our own business and car after car "sped" passed us...they must have been going 160 + kms per hour. What got me, was the "no" using of blinkers over here...you just slide passed anybody in the right hand lane (the wrong side of the road as far as I'm concerned!!) and slide back into the right hand lane at high speed and no blinker. Then there were the millions of trucks, that mostly sat in the extreme right, but many many of them passed you if you weren't travelling fast enough. It was very stressful...I was glad to get to Padova which was the last turn off the motorway to Venice.

Then we got lost...now looking at the map it is hard to believe that you could get lost...but we did. And what a fortuitous (sp??) turn of events this was. We found ourselves driving along the SR11 which was the side road to Venice and we suddenly became aware of the most magificent "old" buildings along a canal. We "rubber-necked" all the way to Venice and I didn't say to David once (unlike on the motorway) don't look out the window...in fact it was impossible not to be blown away by the stunning array of architecture. Of course, we had no idea that these buildings were a very important part of the Italian history, we only found this out later and of course I didn't get my camera out quick enough. Oh well, another place that we have to return to one day!




Then we sort of got lost again, but finally found the bridge to cross over into Venice itself. The excitement was building...firstly that we arrived alive (no mean feat!) and Venice awaited us on the other side. We are still pinching ourselves everyday. VENICE...the Venice that we have only read about before...we were almost there.

We dropped off the hire car...again I felt totally naive and innocent and a little bit lost...got a map (noone is very helpful here either, which is a shame!)...worked out a route to get to San Marco square...once there via a thrilling water taxi (yes, thrilling...every building along the canal is a masterpiece!)...rang the manager of the hotel for directions...not really helpful in these little narrow streets (many not marked on the map!)...stumbled along the very uneven surfaces of the roads, dragging the (my now broken) suitcase up and down lanes...which all look the same (David I think I've seen this shop before!!)...finally asked in a restaurant for further directions...left...right...left...sure, did I mention that these lanes look the same...up and over many bridges (with steps not ramps with the broken suitcase!) finally find the hotel...launch myself at the reception desk...soooooo glad to have arrived....sorry madame the 'otel has a broken pipe and there are no rooms available...we have moved you to another hotel, just two minutes away...our porter will take your bags...yes HE WILL...I have a broken suitcase. Off we go following the porter who was walking very very fast through the narrow lanes, we couldn't keep up and he kept disappearing around corners. Finally we got to our new destination (which was much more than two minutes away!) to be told that there were no rooms available and we were around the corner, just two minutes away...OH SURE!! Finally we were taken to our room in the third hotel (and the room was next door anyway!) It was a lovely room, with our own private balcony over looking the canal. Lovely...King and Queen Farouk were back!! 

His Lordship in his Venetian Chamber!!





Madame having brekky out on our balcony overlooking the
canal. Very nice indeed!!!

We were only there one night unfortunately, and we had to reverse the journey to back to the port, which is where we dropped to car off...aghh!!!!!!! Broken suitcase...water ferries...taxi...and then we were there looking at our ride for the next eight days. A very very very very BIG cruise ship! I am so stupid, I had no idea that our cruise to Istanbul and back was on a ship this big...oh well another adventure begins.

Our home for the next 8 days!

Umbrian heaven

Wednesday 17 November -We decided to really relax and purchase the "Couples promotional offer" at the "Wellness Centre" here at La Casella.

What an experience!.....almost 5 hours of Turkish Steam bath, Sauna, Spa and of course....Alessio, our Italian "therapeutic masseuse"...you'll have to ask Chris about her hour of heaven, but spaeaking for myself it was fantastic....pressure point work, full body massage, essential oils, hot stones, water (& oil) dripped over my back, head & legs, time to rest... and all this in a darkened room, tea lights, & soothing music.....no words... and my massage lasted well over an hour. Then back into the resting room with Earl Grey tea, honey & lemon...enjoying the beautiful views out into the garden...the hills, the stone pools outside...all very relaxing, before more steam baths, saunas & spa time. Finished with a hot shower & beautifully scented bath oils. And apart from "our Alessio" we had the place to ourselves for the 5 hours!! What a way to unwind!!

La Casella reception

Horses at the Equestrian Centre- this one particularly lively!

David's "artistic shot"

"Wellness Centre", near reception.

We're in Italy!!!

We are in Italy - together! Autumn leaves are falling. The sun shines but there is a chill in the breeze, especially towards evening. Our warm stone cottage sits on the side of a small valley, somewhere between villages Fabro and Parrano - Unbria (halfway between Florence and Rome).

We flew into Florence from Madrid and our first experience of Italy was a two hour drive in a hired Nissan Micra - barely large enough to hold our luggage with the back seats down. Driving on the wrong side of the road on "A1" motorway at 120 kph with cars (and bikes) flying past! All the way to Fabro...then into the countryside (dark already!) and onto 8 km of dirt road beside a river - "the Fiume Chiani". Into a valley and finally "La Casella" (eco) resort - old stone buildings (some 300 yo!). http://www.lacasella.it/

We had stopped for directions on the A1 - at an Auto Grill/service station. A real gathering place...large crowd, take away food, alcohol and lots of local produce, including cheeses, meats, wine, etc...so we stocked up.  When we finally arrived at La Casella, we ate, then headed off to bed with prospect of sleeping in!

Slept like logs...didn't wake till 9.30 am...and what a wake up! Pitch black - till I looked at my watch. Opened the double glazed doors from our king sized bed...still dark! Unbolted the heavy wooden shutters and as they swung open onto the verandah, the morning sunshine flooded in...at first blinding..but then, what a sight!!!

The valley dotted with stone buildings, the stables, horses, autumn trees, yellow and green, the tranquil beauty...Umbria. We had local eggs for breakfast on the verandah. A gentle start to the day and the next chapter in our "journey".

We drove back into town for supplies for the next 5 days in our "apartment", enjoying the views we missed the night before...Chris only had to remind me a few times about which side of the road to drvie on!! Into Fabro about 2 pm - all closed up!!!! (except the local tavern.) Shop opening hours 10 - 1 and then 4 - 8 pm! Siesta??!!!

Back to La Casella - then I went back early evening for supplies...great meal that night! Pasta, fresh tomatoes, basil, ciabatta, olives, Italian wine, olive oil, balsamic, salad. Toasted Rob Rio, Di Stefanos and Italian friends...

Breakfast and magificent view!

View from our verandah!

One of the many stone cottages on this
huge property!

Our cottage from the other side of the valley!

More views

Food, glorious Italian food!! (also following video!)

La Alhambra

The Alhambra is a "World Heritage Site" since 1984 (UNESCO) and considered "one of the most important architectural structures of the Middle Ages and the finest example of Islamic art left to us in the Western world".

Chris and I were blown away - Granada, in south eastern Spain, was the last stop of our tour through Spain, Portugal and Morocco, before returning to Madrid and end of the tour.

Granada's Alhambra did not disappoint, here was another highlight! Set high on a hill above present day Granada, this walled Royal city had its beginnings in the late 800s when a Muslim fortress, the Alcazaba, was constructed here. Then followed three centuries of further construction through to the end of Muslim rule in Granada and the advent of the Catholic Monarchs, Ferdinand and Isabella. The result is a magnificent citadel of some 13 hectares, enclosed by over 2 km of walls and towers and containing three Palaces (Muslim Masrid dynasty) all built in 14th century. There is also the palace built in the 16th century by Charles V (of German Reformation fame!) as his honeymoon palace - but never used!

There are also stunningly beautiful and simple gardens with very sophisticated water channels and fountains throughout - all gravity fed!  It is worth googling! We bought a reference book.

Many have come over the centuries to marvel and rest in this place...Sultans, Kings and Queens, Emperors as well as poets, artists, architects and authors. Escher, the Dutch artist, was inspired by the tiling of the Alhambra. The American author, Washington Irving, wrote the "Tales of the Alhambra" while staying here. This popular novel was influential in introducing Alhambra to the wider world and eventually the extensive restoration work and the World Heritage Site recognition. Enjoy the visual images!!



The final chapter in Morocco for the Paechs!

After our wonderful experiences in Fes and Marrakech we made our way back to Tanger (to catch the ferry) via Casablanca and Rabat.

Rick's replica cafe...spoiler alert!!!

Use your imagination...and watch the film again!

Here is another spoiler alert for those who have romantic ideas about Casablanca. Rick's cafe never existed in Casablanca...ohhhhhhh...I here you say...I (Chris) was most put out! But we did drive past one the the 12 Rick's cafes replicas that have been built in Casablanca. Each capitalising on the unsuspecting tourist.

Casablanca is a huge city of "white" (blanca) buildings, too much traffic and is quite grotty for my liking. But Casablanca claim to fame (other than rick's cafe) is the second largest mosque in the muslim world and is the tallest relgious building in the world. It was completed in 1993, with a number of advanced technological features, eg the roof slides open and it has a heated floor in the huge prayer room, and a lift to the top of the minaret for the call to prayer.

It is very, very big, check out the photos. (We recommend that you Google Hassan II mosque - Casablanca...very interesting statistics, including 50 million man hours over 6 years to complete it! Of interest is that the key architect was a French friend of the King and Christian influences can be seen in the building.)

The Hassan II Mosque. Two thirds of
the building is built over the water- inspired by two Koranic verses.

Close up on some of the detail...stunning!

David is in the foreground dwarfed by this
enormous building

This is the forecourt that can hold over 100,000 worshippers!

Rabat was our last port of call before leaving the magificent country of Morocco. Rabat is the capital of Morocco and the King resides here, although he has palaces in most towns as well. We dropped in on his palace here in Rabat, but he wasn't home, but we did pass is cavalcade (of cars - mostly Mercedes) on our way to Marrakech.

Visited Tomb of Mohammed V, where an Iman sits & reads the Koran....Royal guards keep watch outside and the Minaret "Hassan Tower" stands outside (This Roman/Byzantine style mosque is considered to be of equal importance in the Islamic world with the Koutoubia Mosque in Marrakech, which we visited, and The Giralda in Seville - which we climbed to the top of(!!) and which is now part of a huge Catholic Cathedral)... see our earlier Spain blog entries for the Giralda photos!



 

Tomb of Mohammed V

One of the four Royal Guards at the gates
of the tomb!



Iman sitting and reading the Koran.



D & Guard.  Why they are guarding a dead

guy anyway???



I just had to show you our hotel balcony in Rabat!
We ended up moving from this room anyway,
because of the 'delightful' smell coming out of
the bathroom pipes!  Mmmmmmm!



Humbled by Berber hospitality

Chris & I hadn't really known what to expect with this optional extra on our tour...but it ranks as a highlight!
Morocco has three ethnic groups;
1. the indigenous Berbers (60% population) named by the Romans ("barbarous" -outside of Rome). Very early on either Jew or Christian...until the coming of the Muslims.
2. the Arabs who invaded from the Arabian Peninsula, and began the "Muslim conversion"
3. the Black Africans (Sub Sahara areas - Senegal, Niger, Mauritania...)



A natural!!!

 We headed off up into the Atlas Mountains for an afternoon visit to the home of Omar & Zah-far-ah (Sarah) and their family. Passed through several Berber villages along the way....roadside stalls selling goods, excited kids running after our bus, mud brick homes perched on side of road & large river flat below the road (at times flash floods come rolling down this river as heavy rains can fall in the High Atlas- ocassional drownings!) Stopped for a quick camel ride on the way...

Then we arrived...greeted at the roadside by the youngest (about 20 yo & unmarried) son of Omar. He spoke several languages, but not English. He communicated with our guide, Yusaf.  Short walk up into the myriad of rough lanes between mud/daub buildings & homes of the Berber families of this small settlement. Young kids started to gather asking for money, along with older men trying to sell us jewellery, beautiful Moroccan daggers, pieces of beautiful stone etc....Although persistent, they were much more gentle & quiet than down in the souks of the main cities.

We soon arrived at a simple wooden door in one of the high walls of the village laneways. Omar's house...Stooping through the door we entered a small interior courtyard about 6 metres sq. with open "rooms" off to the sides housing animals ....two gentle sheep tethered up - one awaiting slaughter the following week for the "Abraham's Sacrifice" feast (huge in the Muslim world here- celebrating Abraham's offering of his son -the Muslim teach "Ishmael" not Isaac! & God providing the sheep instead), also a room with many black & white rabbits (food source), a donkey etc...

In the corner of the courtyard, steps leading up to the second story & living quarters for the family, and where Omar was waiting to greet us (about 25 international travellers!).

Omar has one wife & seven adult children. We met his youngest son, and two of his daughters & some of his grandchildren. None spoke English but Omar & Zah-far-ah opened their home to us with Berber hospitality....green mint tea, freshly baked warm bread & oliver oil & honey.

Chris & I felt truly privileged & humbled by this experience of the wonderful beauty of humankind....in the simplist of circumstances. The pictures tell the story.....

Sacrifical sheep under shelter - Omar's "balcony"
is above.



This is the sheep that at writing will have been eaten with "joy"
by Omar and his extended family. Left overs shared with the poor.
Sob!!!!!!!!!! (Chris)



Chris and one of Omar's daughters and her 8 mth son and 2 yo
nephew in the living room.



Omar pouring the precious "mint tea" for his
grateful guests.



Zah-far-ah with seconds of the marvellous tea!

Chris enjoying home made bread warm from the
oven with oil and honey, and of course the mint
tea.

D & C enjoying true berber hospitality. What a privilege!

Omar thought David was very tall...wonder why?

Saying our farewells to a wonderful family.
Zah-far-ah bids us "bissalama".

Saying good bye to a happy family...with their simple
circumstances.  Makes you think about being content with
what you have!

That's a happy baby. What joy these people exude.

Take me to the Kasbah!!!

King and Queen Farouk have moved outside to the day bed by the
pool. Too sumptuous for words! (Although very uncomfortable!!)

We moved from the ancient city of Fes to Marrakech after a very long drive. I (Chris) was so excited to to arrive in this place as all my romantic ideas about Morocco have been tied up in Marrakech...like "take me to the Kasbah". Spoiler alert: (if you don't want your ideas about the Kasbah spoilt - look away now!) a Kasbah (any Kasbah) is a fort. Boring!!! No Moroccan sultans to whisk me away for some Kasbahian delights...how disappointing. (Wait till I blog about Casablanca - more spoiler alerts!!) Anyway our hotel was called the Kasbah hotel, so it had to suffice. (See the sultan and sultana in day bed by the pool and Kasbah towel).

See I have been to the Kasbah!

The following morning we visited the Palais El Bahia which was a former residence of a grand vizier. The name of the building means "the Brilliance", which is a slight exaggeration, but it is a beautiful old palace with lovely courtyard gardens and a Koranic Schoolroom for the younger children, with an alcove where the "honoured" teacher would sit.

Two teachers in the alcove of honour.
James, our US tour friend, was a
Principal back a number of years ago.

In this expansive residence, we also saw the Harem's quarters. The harem could also include mothers-in-law and other female relatives as well as the concubines. Each wife (up to four) each had their own residences, otherwise there would be fighting. Near these were the Grand Vizier's private rooms, as well as his receptions rooms, where he would receive his guests, etc.

One of the courtyards in the Palais El Bahia.

Then we were off to the (market)  in Marrakech to see its delights. Again we enjoyed the streets and stalls of the market, but it was not as narrow and as busy as Fes. There were more motorbikes however than donkeys and the same BALAK applied, except this time it was moving vehicles (a bit more unnerving!)

Jars of colourful treasures. Have you heard of the famous Argan oil which is "an oil produced from the kernels of the argan tree, endemic to Morocco, that is valued for its nutritive, cosmetic and numerous medicinal properties"? Well, we have bought some...so we will be curedfrom everything you can think of...hopefully!!

We dropped into a Farmacia (their version of a Pharmacy) with its jar lined shelves, with every imaginable colour represented. We had a short demonstration of the jars' delights, herbal remedies and cure alls, then we were given an opportunity to buy these treasures (of course!!!). We bought the potions that will give us eternal youth...so you won't recognise us when we get back, because we will look so young. Joking aside there were some beautiful scents that we couldn't resist, so if we don't look any younger, we will at least smell good.

Whispering sweet nothings!!!!

Once through the market streets we entered the famous Djemaa el Fna (the market square)...and there we were fascinated by...the monkeys...the snake charmers...the acrobats...the story tellers. Very enjoyable to watch. I didn't find it as delightful as Fes, but David enjoyed it every much. We would like to come back and spend more time here one day.

This was a highlight for me...these monkeys were just gorgeous.
The one on my left started to investigate my hands and was
intrigued by the scar on my left forefinger...then nuzzled into
my neck. I want one!!



Again the market stalls were a wonderment and delight for the senses. We could happily get lost in these market lanes for days!!!!!!!!

Olives...what a gorgeous sight!

Typical market lane...so much to see..so much to do...so much to buy!

On our trip around Germany and also in Spain we were intrigued by the stork nests built on everything tall - telephone poles and chimneys were the tall things of choice. Unfortunately, none of these nests housed the storks themselves, as they had all flown south for the winter. This was disappointing. But, joy of joys, in Morocco the stork nests have storks and I have the photos to prove it...so for anyone who missed the joys of seeing storks, these photos are for you.

Storks really do exist!!!

Does this mean the birth rate is up in Morocco?